A washing machine is the only equipment in the house that everyone absolutely needs at least every week. Most problems with washers appear after it is filled with water when the appliance stops in the middle of a cycle and simply refuses to do anything more. Usually caused by an electrical or mechanical malfunction, this usually ends with someone having to drain the water by hand, but even with this accident, the only thing that is affected or injured is someone’s patience.
Another situation sometimes arises with a completely different result when a different type of problem occurs and the tile started leaking water from a faulty water hose, solenoid valve, pump, drain hose, leaking bathtub, clogged drain pipe or defective pressure switch or its activating pressure hose.
The following procedure is for the second situation when a tray tub overflows and overflows completely (Figure 1
Insert figures 1 and 2 here:
Step # 1 – Secure your threat
The first thing to do when entering a laundry room flooded with water is to turn off the appliance by pushing in the bicycle steering wheel (Figure 2) to remove power from all valves, relays and timer switches.
Step # 2- Listen and Observe
When the power is turned off if the water can still be heard coming in, the next shutdown of water on the other side and past the leak, towards the water supply source should be turned off.
Step # 3- Solenoid Valve or Pressure Switch Insert Figures 3 and 4 here:
If the washer fills to the edge and overflows, the problem with one of the threaded solenoid valves is the inlet valve (Figure 3) or the pressure switch (Figure 4). How the two are connected, whereby the Load Size switch is a pressure switch conducts the current from the bicycle switch to the temperature switch and the solenoid valve for the water inlet.
The water pressure in the bathtub is transferred to the Load Size switch through a clear hose connected to the bottom of the bathtub in Figure 5 and runs all the way up to the pressure switch where it is connected in Figure 6. Insert Figures 5 and 6 here:
It is designed to activate a diaphragm that transmits that pressure to an SPDT (single pole double) switch figure 7 that when it is triggered by a suitable amount of pressure, the current flow from the terminals A and B connected to the solenoid valves switches to the terminals A and C which are connected to the motor to initiate the wash cycle. Insert figure 7 here:
With that explained, it is easy to realize that there are only two components that can be faulty for an overfill problem.
Step # 4- Access the controls
The next step is to gain access to valves and controls. A washer is usually quite easy to disassemble to get in. In this special Whirlpool model in Figure 8, it is clear to see that only four screws are used to hold the control panel and the rear panel together with the rest of the washer. Two large clamps are added to hold everything in place at the top and two more screws (not shown) at the bottom. The rest of the device is working on lips and tabs. Insert figure 8 here:
Screws and mounting brackets should be easily found on the back of any washer to disassemble. It is usually always designed to be a simple task.
Step # 5- The threaded solenoid valve inlet valve
If the water inlet valve is stuck open or partially opened due to obstructions, mineral deposits or an incorrect compression spring, it can be determined by pulling the electrical cord from the outlet to completely eliminate all electrical possibilities. Both the hot and cold water taps can then be switched on and off briefly, in turn to listen if the water can be heard coming in. If this is the case, the valve must be replaced as in step # 6, if not, the next step is No. 7.
Step # 6- Replace the water inlet valves
This is a simple task that only requires a screwdriver and pliers. the hoses from the hot and cold water must be removed from the valves, and the three clamps that hold the short pieces of hose inside must also be removed with pliers. The valve unit can now be removed by unscrewing it from the rear panel and replacing it.
Step # 7- Pressure switch for load size
With the possibility that a defective water inlet valve is now excluded, and since the power going to it comes from the pressure switch (as described earlier), it can be assumed that the pressure switch will probably not succeed in switching the current from the solenoid valve to the motor. Here are four possible reasons:
- Obstacle at the plastic hose that prevents the compressed air from reaching the switch.
- Breakage of the plastic hose and keeps the pressure from building up
These two can be easily verified by removing the hose and blowing into it to see if the air passes through and then clamping at the other end to check if it is broken or punctured.
- Internally, the diaphragm inside the pressure switch can spread or leak, which prevents the pressure from building up.
- The compression spring or other internal mechanical component may have failed inside the pressure switch, leaving the amount of pressure coming from the pressure hose insufficient to trigger the switch.
Step # 7- Replace the pressure switch
- This is also easily achieved by first pulling out the small pressure hose from the side of the switch.
- there is a small tab on the switch all the way up to the front panel that locks it in place. The tab is pressed in and releases the switch which can then be rotated 1/8 turn to the left, so that it can be pulled out, after the steering wheel has been pulled off it from the front.
- The new switch can now be installed according to the same procedure in reverse order.