When all the components were soldered, it is time to mount the Christmas tree.
– Separation of the boards –
I started breaking the board with flat pliers to separate the two fins from the main board. I used cutting pliers to remove any large edge that could possibly be damaged. Then I used sandpaper to smooth the Christmas tree surfaces and finally have three clean boards: the main tree and his two fins.
– Connecting the boards –
A fin is attached to the main board by soldering a 2-pole pen connection between them. The pinhead connector has two applications here: hold the blade to the main board and set the voltage and mass to the LEDs in the window.
I cut 2 * 2-pin pin head connectors from a large connector pin with contact pin and cleaned the plastic edges with sandpaper. Then I soldered them head to the tail on the main board as on the pictures, one on the top surface and the other on the bottom surface.
I soldered the two fins to the contacts, being careful to fit them properly and placed the fin with a notch on the battery connector side.
The Christmas tree plate is now finally mounted!
1; Turns on the circuit –
The circuit board is powered by a CR1220 lithium battery of 3V. When the button cell located in the battery holder down on board and the switch closes, all LEDs start flashing like magic!
The button cell used in this project has an average capacity of 40 mAh which means it can deliver up to 40 mA for 1 hour or 20 mA for 2 hours. The current consumption of PCB Christmas tree is about 80 mA, and depends on the colors of the LEDs selected: White, blue and purple LEDs draw more power than red, orange and yellow LEDs.
With experience, I recommend you use red, orange, yellow and green LEDs as they will save battery life while providing nice colors in the spirit of Christmas 🙂 With these colors in equal parts, my Christmas trees glow for 1 hour until the green LEDs start to fade.