Gripping rods are usually very easy to design but are incredibly versatile and provide effective safety and comfort in the bathroom and elsewhere around the house. They offer good stability to maintain balance and good firm support when you stretch over the side of a bathtub or climb a few steps. They come in many different sizes, weight capacities and shapes.
The following is a step-by-step list to gradually eliminate criteria that do not apply when choosing the right grip.
. Capacity and security
Each grab bar should be able to support a person weighing up to 250 pounds, but when choosing one, it is best to choose one that can support 500 pounds. A roof bar that has the ADA label (Americans with Disabilities) shows that they meet or exceed the association’s standards.
Another point is the fact that a bar with a grooved surface instead of a smooth shiny surface will provide a much more positive grip with less risk of slipping.
2. Diameter and clearance
Gripping rods are available in different diameters, but the best ones that provide a comfortable and solid handle are 1-1 / 4 ”to 1-1 / 2” (32 – 38 mm). A grab bar should also offer a minimum net freedom of 38 mm between the bar and the wall to allow the bar to be held without injuring or scraping the back of the hands and knuckles.
3. Grasp the length
Gripping rods are usually available in various lengths ranging from 12 to 48 inches (31 cm – 122 cm), although they are available in 9 inch (23 cm) lengths and up to 60 inches (152 cm). The lengths are the actual nominal length measured from the center of one flange to the center of the flange at the other end. The most common lengths are 12 “(31 cm), 16” (41 cm), 18 “(46 cm), 24” (61 cm), 32 “(81 cm), 36” (91 cm), 42 “(107 cm), 48 ”(81 cm) 122cm).
4. Common grip shapes and styles
Straight roof bars
This is the most basic and common type of grab bar you see. It can be installed in three different ways: vertically, horizontally and diagonally (Figures 1a and 1b).
Vertical grip bars are easier to grip and easier to use for people with arthritis.
Horizontal grab bars allow you to rotate your body, are sturdy when you pull yourself up to stand and make it easier to get in and out of a wheelchair, but they are limited to a fixed height and can be more difficult for people with arthritis for how it counteracts the wrist.
Diagonal grip bars hold different heights, provide a more natural movement in the hands and wrist and help the transition from sitting to standing. To prevent the hand from slipping, a bar should have a structured surface.
Grip bars are also available with a certain style to suit the rooms’ decorations and are made available in different shapes or with stylish finials and different colors.
A more modern version used for a quick or temporary fixation is the Grab Bar Clamp in figure 2, which is held to the wall with suction cups. It is only recommended for use to maintain balance in the shower or when lifting your legs over the bathtub wall to get in or out, but never as a general grip bar to help pull you up. This type of clamp requires tightening from time to time.
Angled or in corners
Some special grab bars like the angled grab bars (with 30° or 45° bending) in Figure 3, the 90 degree grip bars (called a J-bar or an L-bar) in Figure 4, The inner corner grip bars in Figure 5, are all designed for very specific use offers two types of support. Internal corner handles are especially useful if you are sitting in the bathtub or on a shower chair for bathing. The grip bar is a continuous piece that is attached along two sides of your bathtub wall.
Turn roof racks upside down
These have a long reach and are perpendicular to the wall when installed (Figure 6). The semicircular bar is attached to a large steel plate by a pivotable hinge that allows it to swing down or up to fold out of the way when not needed. They are usually installed around the toilet area.
Wall-mounted swingarm with several positions
As seen in Figure 7, this is a versatile L-shaped grip bar that can be placed left- or right-handed, and on which a semicircular grip bar is mounted on the vertical part to pivot and lock in one of five positions. It offers very good stability for getting down or up in the bathtub for example, but also in or out with its far-reaching bar.
The Tub Grab Bar
This has an adjustable clamp that is wrapped around the side of the bathtub with one part outside and the other inside, which together press hard on the bathtub. It offers a semicircular handle at about wrist level that provides good support for getting in or out.
5th Choose the right method and fasteners
A grip bar that is not properly secured can cause terrible damage to someone who uses it in a cloudy way. The first and most important rule is to find the location of the pins in the wall and screw the flange in solid wood.
A horizontal 16 “(41 cm) straight bar should fit perfectly screwed in two screws. For a diagonal installation, a 24” (610 cm) screwed in two screws with a 16 “angle of 45 ° apart. For a longer diagonal that is attached for pins with 32 “intervals, a 48” (122 cm) would be an option but slightly steeper than 45 ° while a 42 “(107 cm) would be lower.
Often, however, the bounce is not exactly where it is needed and the grab bar must therefore be “anchored” to the wall. There are lots of different types of anchors but not all are suitable for the job. The most efficient and fastest system is the Strap Toggle in Figure 8.
After marking the location of the holes on the wall, drill a 3/8 ”(9 mm) hole through the wall where the belt is turned. By pulling on the straps, the metal nut releases against the surface on the inside, then the collar is pushed back against the wall surface to hold the nut in place tightly. The remainder of the plastic legs can then be broken out of the flush. The process continues for all holes to attach the rod. So when it is ready, there are six holes in the wall, each of which is equipped with a threaded nut perfectly placed to attach the rod.
There are some added benefits to this system. One is if the nut gets cross-threaded or does not work in any way, a knock on a Phillips or Robertson screwdriver placed on top will hit the nut inside, ready for another try.
If the rod must be removed halfway, the nuts remain in place. There is no risk of this type of anchor slipping and starting to turn itself into the hole. The holding force is much stronger than most hollow wall anchors.