Home / How To / How to sew an invisible zipper with lining: 13 steps

How to sew an invisible zipper with lining: 13 steps



Give your handmade garment a professional fit by attaching an invisible zipper. This creates a seamless look so that there are no gaps near the closure. As long as you use an invisible zipper foot on your sewing machine, it is easy to attach the zipper to your dress, skirt or shirt fabric. Once the zipper is in place, you can slide on the foot to the sides of the zipper.

Attach the zipper

  1. 1

    Sew a spine seam along both sides of the garment closure. Lay your garment with the right side and find out where you want to sew the zipper. Then thread your sewing machine with a contrasting thread color and sew long, straight straight stitches around 58 1.6 cm from the side edge of the opening where you place the zipper. Do the same for the opposite side.[1]

    • If you prefer, sew the basting stitches by hand.
    • Since the stitch lines are simply guidelines, do not sew the fabric edges together. The lines only help you position the zipper so that you sew it straight.
  2. 2

    Unpack the zipper and arrange the teeth on the left zipper to the left thread. Take an invisible zipper that matches the color of your garment and unpack it all the way. Then place the left zipper tape on the left side of your garment so that the zipper teeth go directly to the tread line.[2]

    • The flat side of the zipper should lie flat on the right side of your garment.
    • If the zipper is curved or curved, lay it flat on an ironing board. Heat the iron to the synthetic setting and run it over the zipper to smooth it.

    Tip: Leave around 34 1.9 cm from the top of your garment, so you can stop underneath and sew the top of the zipper.

  3. 3

    Attach the left zipper strap to your garment. Push a sleep needle through the tape horizontally so that it holds the zipper to the edge of your garment. Keep checking to see that the teeth of the zippers are aligned with the stretch stitches as you walk. Pin all the way to the bottom of the left zipper.[3]

    • Do not clamp the right side of the zipper at this time. You fasten the zipper on the right side after sewing the left side in place.
  4. 4

    Attach an invisible zipper foot and insert the groove into the zipper teeth. Remove the standard foot from the sewing machine and slide an invisible zipper foot onto the presser foot holder. Then slide the fabric under the foot so that the left groove fits on the zipper teeth.[4]

    • You see two tracks on the invisible zipper foot and the sewing needle is sewn between them.
  5. 5

    Make straight stitches from the top down to the zipper stop. Adjust the machine so that it makes straight stitches and start sewing from the top of the left zipper. Sew straight down until the invisible zipper foot reaches the zipper stop. Then cut the thread and tie it off.[5]

    • The invisible zipper foot slides along the zipper teeth when you sew, so it only takes a few seconds.
  6. 6

    Repeat this for the opposite side of the zipper. Once you have sewn one side of the zipper in place, place the other side of the zipper on the opposite edge of the garment. Arrange the zipper tape so that the teeth of the zippers match the seam of the tow. Then place your invisible zipper foot so that the right groove is on the teeth and the needle is on the left. Sew straight stitches down to the zipper stop.[6]
  7. 7

    Zipper with the zipper and sew raw ends of the zipper. Slide the upper ends of the zipper strap to hide the raw edges and sew them in place by hand. Then use a needle and thread or your machine to sew the lower end of the tape to the seam of the garment.[7]

    • Avoid sewing the lower end of the tape onto the fabric of the garment, otherwise your seams will be visible.
    • If you can see the boring stitches when you turn your garment to the right, pull out the boring stitches.

Sew lining to an invisible zipper

  1. 1

    Turn the garment inside out so that the zipper is visible. Once you have sewn the zipper to your garment, turn it out and lay it flat. This gives you easy access to the zipper tape, which is what you sew lining on.[8]

    • Remember that the fabric side next to the zipper teeth is called the zipper tape.
  2. 2

    Fold your lining past 58 inches (1.6 cm) and iron the fold flat. Take the lining that you have mounted for your item and read the pattern to find the seam extension for the zipper opening. If the pattern is not specified, fold the part of the liner that fits around the zipper 58 inches (1.6 cm). Then use the iron to press the folded edges flat to make a fold.[9]

    • Fold the pattern side of the lining to the wrong side.
  3. 3

    Arrange the lining with the right side up on the wrong side of your garment. Position the liner so that the V-shaped zipper opening fits around the actual zipper. Align the bottom of the zipper with the tip of the lining where the edges meet.[10]

    • This gives your garment straight, professional seams.
  4. 4

    Attach both sides of the liner to the zipper strap. Hold the pleated edge of the liner next to the zipper teeth so that the liner covers the zipper strap. Then insert the sewing pins horizontally along both sides of the zipper so that the lining stays in place.[11]

    • Make sure that you do not squeeze the lining over the teeth, otherwise your zipper will get caught.

    Tip: Be really careful when attaching lining to the zipper. You do not want to accidentally push the pins through the tape and into your garment.

  5. 5

    Staple the liner to the zipper. Thread a sleeping needle to create invisible stitches. Insert it through the upper edge of the zipper and insert the needle through the folded edge of the lining to make a seam. Pull the thread and put the needle back in the liner. Continue the slip seam between the folded lining and the zipper strap until you reach the bottom of the zipper.[12]

    • Sew with the same thread as you used to sew in the zipper to the garment.
    • Redo your seams 18 inches (0.32 cm) long, so they are short and strong.
  6. 6

    Sew slip stitches on the other side of the zipper band and tie off the thread. Once you have attached the lining to one side of the zipper, start sewing along the other side. Work from the bottom of the liner at the bottom of the zippers up to the top. Then tie off the thread and trim the excess.[13]

Tip

  • Choose a zipper that matches the color of the fabric to make the zipper blend into your garment.

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Things you need

  • Skirt, pants or dress

  • Zipper

  • Iron and ironing board

  • Scissor

  • Needle

  • Sewing machine with an invisible zipper foot

  • Sewing needles

  • Lining fabric

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Updated: August 26, 2020

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