One night, after getting ready for bed, a person goes up to the front door of the house to lock it, and pulls up the handle, he feels and hears almost the small, almost impossible resistance of the German-made locking mechanism for latch. At that moment, his brain records that problems have just arrived.
The 70 mm door he designed and built himself, with side lights, and framed with three European-style hinges, and a triple bracket with a three-point locking mechanism far up on the screen had always been his pride, but now it would now put him on sample. In a small wrist move, it had just become his next nightmare. But as a DIYer as he was, his brain was already analyzing the situation and devising solution scenarios.
Focus on the Hinges
Figure 1 shows a typical heavy security hinge with the upper and lower sections (or sleeves) attached to the door frame and the center part of the door screen. They were chosen especially for their safety pins which made it impossible for burglars to disassemble.
Figure 2 shows how it is done, with a partially extended pin showing a machined recess near the top where an adjusting screw rests and keeps pins from coming out. The set screw is inserted into the upper sleeve of the hinge main body at an angle facing the edge of the screen so that it cannot be reached for removal unless the door is wide open. These heavy hinges are usually in sets of three, with only one being a safety hinge, which can be identified by looking at the hinge near the wood to find the threaded hole housing the set screw on each safety hinge. The adjusting screw can be removed by following the step-by-step instructions below.
Remove the safety catch from the hinge
Using a center punch, mark the location of the hole to be drilled to prevent the drill bit from sliding or "dances around the rounded surface", shown in Figure 3.
A 1/8 "(3mm) hole can then be drilled perpendicular to the sleeve approximately 1/8" (3 mm) deep to form a saddle where the drill bit For better results, it may be easier if a smaller size drill is used to create a pilot hole that will guide the 1/8 ”(3 mm) drill bit and produce all drills with much more accuracy.
perpendicular to the door frame shown in Figure 3, the hole can be drilled further so that it passes as close to the shaft of the pin as possible and sufficiently deep to reach the adjusting screw.
The bit can then be machined to enlarge the opening slightly so that the securing screw loosens itself (Figure 4). It should be done carefully to minimize the size of the resulting hole until the adjusting screw can be successfully backed out sufficiently with a scratch or other pointed unit to allow the pin to slide out.
As in Figure 4, one of the other hinge pins or shafts of similar size can be used with a finished hammer to gradually tap the lock pin slide out. A closing hammer that weighs only 12 grams is a preferred tool for keeping the damage as small as possible should it collide with the wood, but no matter what, the pin should be knocked very lightly and should come out if the adjusting screw is sufficiently backed. If it is still stuck in place, return to working the adjusting screw with the scratch or drill and retract it further.
When the head is sufficiently exposed, a flat screwdriver can be used to finish the drain completely ( Fig.5).
Pry Out the Door
After the pins are removed from all hinges, a small prey bar or a chlorine hammer can be used to begin to pull out the frame from its frame very slowly, as shown in Figure 6.
When the frame is pulled out enough to handle a good hold of it with one hand, the handle can be gripped with the other hand and the screen is moved sideways away from the latch, as shown in Figure 7.
Remove the hardware
Now that the door screen is released from the door frame and mechanism have been made available, it has become possible to remove the cylinder, handles and plates, and finally the mechanism to replace e broken one.