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Hot Topics: Fixing a Rotting Shed

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Original post: Managing the wooden root on the bottom of T111

EdShnatter Member

I have a 20 year old shed. Taking a new roof on it and painting it ̵

1; the roof leaked too long and some T111 near the top rotted.

On the northern sides of the shadow / shadow, there are very light green algae?

I squirt with wet and forget and just look at things close.

I noticed that some of the lower parts of the T111 rot. As you can see in the picture, it does not have standing water / not near the ground. Is it just what happens after 20 years have been exposed to being rained?

To repair it / keep the critics from entering you just make a cut of 1 or 2 feet high all the way and replace the lower part for the whole length of the cut? Or try to squeeze the bad areas and cut to the next studs on both sides / just replace the 1 & apos; height with multiple footboards?

Yes, and I'll paint the bottom edge. Not sure if it was painted or not. Keeps moisture from entering.

Is there a pressure-treated T111? Should I use it?

I'm still saying it's a 20 year old shed …. how long will it be? But I spend $ a new roof so I hope it will take a while.

 by a rotting burst

Norm201 Member

What you suggest works well. 20 years on a T111 shed is good. Especially if no special care is taken. I'm on my other 20-year-old shed that I built. If you don't use special guards or covers, I don't think you get much more than 20 years. I also don't think it's worth putting on a shot to go more than 20-25 years.

Pilot Dane Group Moderator

I would make a 12 "saw cut or anything. Then loosen the bottom of the cut with roof plate or galvanized steel. Blink the metal up during T1-11 so that the water will decrease T1-11 and on the metal

joecaption Member

Why is it rotting and shaping?

It is likely that there is not enough roof over the hanger, no gutters, lack of proper sealing and the shed sat down nearby.

I would snap a line at 4 "and cut out and remove the bottom T111, seal the cutting edge and then protrude the sides, assemble pieces of Z-shape and replace the old wood with 1X6 PVC wood products .

EdShnatter Thread Starter

I replace the ceiling. Now I notice it (small amount of root) on the bottom. but other than them, it seems in good condition. I have been discussing replacing the shed-it's 10×16 with the cost of the new shed and the disposal of the old one (someone mentioned selling it on Craigslist !? Wouldn't have thought about it). vs. keep it going.

I posted in the automotive section – I have a 2010 Honda Civic with 150K miles. Runs well, except that the air compressor died (actually maybe only the clutch coil failed). What do you use as a rule of thumb to keep anything on the road (shed, etc.) vs. throw it away.

Pilot and Joe-that Z-shaping is to keep the new wooden wiper, right?

Something I understand – this cut was built with staples throughout. What would you use to attach the new T111 to the bolts? Galvanized / Tire Screws? The buttons are probably not in line with the average channels. Should only screw when needed? The staples are nice because they are not so noticeable. Or should I get a staple gun? Or nails?

EdShnatter Thread starter

What do you think about this? adds the block? Maybe not all stud? and nail / screw into these too? Or the 16-inch gap distance is enough to give the controller stiffness?

 a man drills wood that repairs a shed

marksr Forum Topic Moderator

I Used screws or nails, screws stay better, but the nails look usually nicer. The Z-flash keeps the water from collecting where the new wood and the old tree meet.

aka pedro Member

How is the framework? The structure itself is solid and has a treated bottom plate, it is no use replacing it. Because you are on the point to consider that option, and again, provided that the framework is good, I would suggest that you look at the rest of the window is good to make sure it is solid, and if not, can you completely remove T111 and install new ones. If you find that the side tracks are solid and wish to repair just that bottom, I would go the way Joe suggested with PVC timber along the bottom and a Z-channel on top.

It is honestly not so bad a job to stop the Z-channel behind the old side wall when you make it cut straight. For nailing new sidings, I use 7 pennies as they only do for this purpose, as they hold as good as 8 penny, but have a little smaller head. If you cut only the side grooves of the side grooves, it would be a good idea to block you asked, because the side groove will eventually finally bend, where there is no flat surface behind it. But, being a shed, I do not know that I think it is necessary.

EdShnatter Thread Starter

Thank you! Aka – overall, the cut is noisy. It was the debate I had in my head about replacing the roof or getting a new shed. I see this root in some areas near the bottom of the side tracks But when I remove it 1 "at the bottom … we see what I found. Treated bottom plate? I know they said it was on treated 4x4s. The bottom plate is what the floor ? or the bottom 2×4 that the vertical knobs are on?

7d vs 8d. There is more to a nail description than that, or? should you use galvanized? Common, not finishing, right?

Oh Pilot says replacing the lower part of what was T111 with metal? And Joe just said a piece of 1×6 plastic! What are your thoughts on aesthetics for any of them compared to new T111? hide

I'll add this to my other roofing question as well, but what do you think about using pressure-treated 2x4s when I replace the 2×4 or for this new blockage? From what little I know is it wet when you get it / can wander over time more than an obe duck 2×4?

marksr Forum Topic Moderator

If you do not expect the wood to get wet or touch the ground I would not interfere with pressure treated You always want to use galvanized nails on the outside or when you nail in PT -wood. IMO a treated or PVC band along the bottom that replaces the rotten sides will look good.

aka pedro Member

Okay, so skip what I said about treated bottom plates. They are SOP for me when they build on a plate, so I rolled out as I wrote, but sounds like your not on a plate, and they are in good shape, so ignore that part. And no, I wouldn't use any other place. It is heavier, it is more expensive, it can be harder to cut, it can twist significantly, and it is not necessary. You should find the 7 penny I mentioned right in with the other nails; yes they are commons and yes they are galvanized.

sdodder Member

I recently had exactly the same problem. Repaired it the way Joe described. It worked well. I did not use any blocking at the seam and did not notice any twisting. Good luck!

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