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Hot Topics: Cedar Fence

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Original Post: Western Red Cedar? 4 "deep posts?

Toller ̵

1; Member

My son in Wisconsin gets awards for a 200" fence. The guy he likes suggests western red cedar. I see it as brittle wood. Is it sustainable? How can you compare it to pressure treatment?

He also suggests pushing the posts 4 & # 39; in the ground, rather than putting them in cement, and says they are less likely to hover when the ground freezes. Is it reasonable?


clancy Member

WRC is soft, not brittle. Preservatives are overvalued. Especially with a new growth of wood. Burying it can disappoint.

cwbuff Member

I don't know about western red cedar but I grew up on a farm that had eastern red cedar posts stuck in the ground. The fence posts were decades old. The key is that the post must be corewood.

I have a split fence that has black grasshoppers stuck 2 in the ground. The fence is 30+ years old and the post is still solid.

marksr Forum Topic Moderator

I don't know what kind of cedar it was but when I built a fence around place I had in Florida [back in the 80s] I mostly used 4×4 PT post but had get cedar 4x4s that I got for free. Whatever the reason, these cedar thresholds had a short life [less than 5 yrs].

Generally speaking, the deeper a post goes, the safer it is. IMO concrete is needed only if the ground is not such that it will secure the record by itself.

XSleeper Group Moderator

If I did, I would get a lot of crushed stone and fill the posts with it. I have seen some posts rotten and buttoned at ground level … but it can happen after 30-40 years no matter what.

stickshift Group Moderator

Thumb rule is buried 1/3 of the entry so 4 & # 39; would allow a fence height of 8 & # 39; if attributed to the idea of ​​burying a wooden post in the first hand.

marksr Forum Topic Moderator [19659006] Hard to build a fence without burying the posts

I like the suggestion to use gravel, the more drainage you can give under and around the post the better.

XSleeper Group Moderator [19659006] Not gravel … crushed stone. It locks together, while gravel easily interchanges, like sand.

cwbuff Member

I have 300 "split rail fence. I put 5 or 6 inches of pea in the bottom of each hole to help drop water from the final grain where most rats occur. Then I just filled the holes and tamped the dirt. The fence is 30 years old, has no slims and no rat.

Soparklion Member

I am considering the same project, because I am not working for the next two the weeks … Where are your fences? I'm in Pittsburgh, Pa. I have 6 inches of food soil and mud that the local kids use as modeling mud. It doesn't run well at all.

cover to protect the base of the post? Someone who uses greencoat / copper napkin? Henry Blue Skin is a wrap. Someone who uses postal savers? /

Someone recommends that it cover the bottom of the post with 30 years silicone cabbage …

Even more interesting is this polymer solution instead of concrete: Fixed 2K Post Back Fill by ROYAL ADHESIVES & SEALANTS:

 cedar wood mounting mounted in marks

XSleeper Group Moderator

Interesting product.

If you use treated wood for your posts, you always want to make sure that the 4x4s you use for fences are rated for ground contact. Not all treated wood is the same … make sure you check the tags that are required by law to be laid on the ends of the wood. Some treated wood is only intended for use above the ground. If you cut a post, you always want to treat the cut end with a copper pin or anchor 2 or similar product. And I would suggest you cut it down where you can repaint it as needed.

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