Hey … we're almost there! This step is unnecessary if you obviously do not want to drill perfect angles! In this step, one degree must die, but be reborn in a beautiful way. We will dismantle the tool by removing the thumb screw and possibly drilling out the internal work. I bought two things from a local box store and the first one fell apart after I removed the thumb screw while the other needed a drill and an optimized piece. Anyway, remove the two parts.
If your holder is something like mine, the arm will be too long. The length can be cut from the tip of the pointer to 3 and 3/4 "total length. I added a second hole about 1 1/2" up from the hole that came with it.
Removing the protractor plate. ..
I listed a hand saw for this next step because you really need to have a flat surface for the top of the saw to run against, which was the sacrificial frame. This kept my looking straight, which is what you really want for the square (more like a rectangle, amiright?) Sitting parallel to the frame. Whatever the case, we do not need to lower this blade very far in … just enough for the metal to sit, about 1
Cutting the square grain.
You will probably need to add a piece of wood to the bottom of your sacrificial frame that we added in the last step as the arm so you can screw the arm on. A slice of wood slightly over 2 "x 3/8" x 1/2 "wide is enough.
Adds width to our sacrificial frame.
Let both of these dry and come back in a few hours to Add the arm and put the protractor field in its rightful place.
Calibrate this is a snap … it's really! We'll put the sacrificial frame in its upright position and allow the 90 degree line to be exactly parallel to the bottom of the sacrificial frame. that it is perfect … just make sure the line on your protractor is exactly parallel, then we put a couple of combination screws in the head in advance) to lock it in place and we will focus on the arm.
Adjust the square. 19659002] The arm has the same necessity for straightness for things to work perfectly. We put it back at a 90 degree angle and place the tip on the grate surface until it is perfect at 90 degrees. We mark the holes, drill and add a couple of slices under each hole, Because we made the head on the head with the coil, we want to lift the arm slightly. Four tiles do just that.
When things look right, we take out the # 12 x 1/2 "screws and throw a pair in the arm. Make sure you have made these holes big enough or you risk destroying the wood you added and the frame. 19659002] But why the combination screws … or which is combination screws? It is a flat surface above the threads of the screw … NOT domed. Domed will not let you sneak and tighten the screws, they will lead you instead The flat surface above the threads of a combination screw makes it easy to tighten exactly where you want the screw to go.
Squaring up the arm.